Installation Instructions for
1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" ENGINEERED PRODUCTS FOR STAPLE-DOWN & GLUE-DOWN
METHODS
HARTCO - Do not staple down Pecan or Maple
Products
RECOMMENDED ADHESIVES: QuickLinkTM 60 • Hartco 57
RECOMMENDED ADHESIVE REMOVER: 57 Adhesive Remover
RECOMMENDED CLEANER: Easy Clean
OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITY
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of
nature and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in
accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies
not to exceed 5%. These grading deficiencies may be of a manufacturing or
natural type.
-
The installer assumes all responsibility for
final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be
done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and
quality before installing it. If material is not acceptable, do not install it
and contact the seller immediately.
-
Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring
product, the installer must determine that the job-site environment and the sub
surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards. Recommendations of
the construction and materials industries as well as local codes must be
followed. These instructions recommend that the construction and subfloor be
dry, stiff and flat.
-
The manufacturer declines any responsibility
for job failure resulting from or associated with sub-surface, sub flooring or
jobsite environmental deficiencies.
-
Prior to installation, the installer/owner has
final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish.
The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces
with deficiencies, whatever the cause.
-
Use of stain, filler or putty stick for
touch-up during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
-
When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to
the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading allowance.
-
Should an individual piece be doubtful as to
grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
-
Use of appropriate products for correcting
subfloor voids should be accepted as a normal industry practice.
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES
NEEDED FOR ALL INSTALLATIONS
ALL INSTALLATIONS
ADD FOR GLUE-DOWN
ADD FOR STAPLE-DOWN
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES FOR JOB SITE
INSPECTION
The building should be closed in with all
outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry, framing members,
drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. The wall
coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final
coat on the base molding. When possible, delay installation of base molding
until flooring installation is complete. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry
and well ventilated.
Exterior grading should be complete with
surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3”in 10’to direct flow of water
away from the structure. All gutters and downspouts should be in place.
Engineered flooring may be installed below, on or above grade level. Do not
install in full bathrooms.
Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24”(600 mm)
from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black
polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches
and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of
1.5% of the crawl space square footage. These vents should be properly located
to foster cross ventilation (see figure #1). Where necessary, local regulations
prevail.
Subfloor must be checked for moisture content
using the appropriate testing method.
Permanent air conditioning and heating
systems should be in place and operational. The installation site should have a
consistent room temperature of 60-75° F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days
prior, during and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry
place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under cartons, which
are stored upon “on-grade” concrete floors. Flooring should not be delivered
until the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until
cement work, plastering and all other “wet” work is completed and dry.
Concrete should be at least 60 days old.
Engineered flooring should be stored in the environment in which it is expected
to perform. Check adhesive label for storage limitations.
INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS
STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS
NOTE: SEE NON-RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS, IF ANY, IN HEADER.
All engineered products up to 3 1/4”in width
may be installed with a properly selected stapler. Do not staple products that
exceed 3 1/4” in width. All 1/4” engineered products may be installed with a
properly selected stapler regardless of width.
Make sure to properly adjust the stapler for
proper product thickness (see figure #2). This may include the use of an
adapter on some models. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage
caused by fastening machines.
Use minimum 1”staples recommended by the
stapler manufacturer.
INSTALLATION USING PNEUMATIC STAPLING
MACHINES
NOTE: MINOR OCCASIONAL NOISES IN MECHANICALLY FASTENED FLOORS IS NOT
ABNORMAL DUE TO STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT CAUSED BY CHANGES IN ENVIRONMENTAL
CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN MINIMIZE THESE FACTORS BUT OFFER
NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR WILL NOT CREATE MINOR OCCASIONAL NOISES.
GENERAL INFORMATION FOR STAPLED
APPLICATIONS:
Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can
cause severe damage to the flooring. The correct adapter and air pressure
setting will properly set the staple in the nail pocket (figure #3). Low air
pressures may fail to properly set the staple and damage adjoining boards. Air
pressures set too high may cause damage to the tongue, preventing installation
of adjoining boards and cause blisters on the face of the flooring. Make
certain that the compressor has a regulator in-line with the air hose for
proper adjustment. Set pressure at 70 PSI to begin with and adjust until proper
staple setting occurs. USE A STAPLER DESIGNED FOR THE THICKNESS OF THE PRODUCT
BEING INSTALLED. Any water damaged, swollen or delaminated sub flooring
materials will not hold staples properly and must be repaired or replaced.
GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS
Use recommended adhesive (shown in header on
page 1) and trowel (figure #4) to get required spread rate and ridging height.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS MUST BE:
CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free
of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives, curing agents and other debris.
LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16”in 10’and/or 1/8”in
6’.Sand high areas or joints. If the floor is to be glued down, fill low areas
(no more than 1/8” at a time) with a cementitous leveling compound or milk
additive latex patch of 3,000-PSI minimum compressive strength. Follow the
instructions of the leveling compound manufacturer. Ascertain that leveling
compounds are completely cured and DRY before beginning installation. When
stapling the floor down, flatten low spots with layers of 15# builders felt,
plywood or shims (not leveling compounds). Leveling materials must provide a
structurally sound subfloor that does not affect the holding power of the
staple.
STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose
areas that squeak. Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated sub
flooring or underlayments. Avoid sub floors with excessive vertical movement.
DRY - Check moisture content of the subfloor
with the appropriate moisture meter.
RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
GLUE-DOWN
Concrete slabs
Acoustic concrete
Ceramic, terrazzo, slate and marble
3/4”chip, wafer board and particleboard
Acoustic cork underlayment
PREFERRED:3/4”(19 mm) CDX grade plywood or
3/4”(23/32”) OSB PS2 rated underlayment, MINIMUM:5/8”CDX grade plywood
Existing solid wood flooring
Vinyl, resilient tile, cork flooring
Metal
PREFERRED: 3/4”(19 mm) CDX grade plywood or
3/4”(23/32”) OSB PS2 rated underlayment, MINIMUM:5/8”CDX grade plywood
Existing solid wood flooring
Vinyl, resilient tile, cork flooring
3/4”chip, wafer board, particleboard
CONCRETE SLABS
GLUE-DOWN
Engineered flooring can be glued directly to high compressive strength
concrete. Do not install over a concrete sealer. All concrete sub floors should
be tested for moisture content. Visual checks may not be reliable. Test several
areas, especially near exterior and plumbing walls. Acceptable test methods for
subfloor moisture content include:
A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol
solution. Chip the concrete at least 1/4”deep (do not apply directly to the
concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area.
If any color change occurs, further testing is required.
Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture
transfer must not exceed 3 lbs/1000 square feet in 24 hours with this
test. This test is required in commercial applications.
Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter
(figure #5).Moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale. (Figure
#5 shows an unacceptable reading of over 4.5).
A “DRY”SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE
WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR.THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL
CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER
BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
Moisture Barrier System: If moisture is
present, inexpensive sheet vinyl or “slip-sheet”(PVC) may be installed. Use a
premium grade, alkaline resistant adhesive and a full spread application system
to properly bond the vinyl to the subfloor. Follow the sheet vinyl manufacturer
instructions for installation procedures. A patch test may be required as an
adhesion test. Install several small areas (3’x 3’) and allow the vinyl to set
for 72 hours. Remove the vinyl; if the backing remains attached to the
concrete, the subfloor should be acceptable for sheet vinyl installation.
STAPLE-DOWN
Install a suitable moisture retarder followed by a plywood sub floor
with a minimum thickness of 1/2”. The panels must be properly attached to the
sub floor using a minimum of one fastener per square foot and more if
necessary. Use pneumatic or powder actuated fasteners. Do not hand nail the
subfloor.
ACOUSTIC CONCRETE (GLUE-DOWN ONLY)
Acoustic concrete normally contains large quantities of gypsum that
may inhibit the adhesive’s capability to properly bond. Acoustic concrete
must be primed with the concrete manufacturers recommended primer/surface
hardener. Always check for adequate adhesive bond.
WOOD SUBFLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL SUBFLOORS
Plywood: Must be APA grade rated sheathing or CDX minimum. Oriented Strand
Board (OSB):Must be PS2 rated installed sealed side down. Particleboard: Must
be a minimum 40-LB density, stamped underlayment grade and 3/4”thick.
STAPLE-DOWN OR GLUE-DOWN
Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry and well nailed or screwed
down every 6”along each joist to avoid squeaking or popping before the floor is
installed. The wood subfloor must not exceed 13% moisture content. Measure
moisture content of both subfloor and wood flooring to determine proper
moisture content with a reliable wood moisture meter. The difference between
the moisture content of the wood subfloor and the wood flooring must not exceed
4%.
Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering
products occurs when there is little horizontal or vertical movement of the
subfloor. The MINIMUM subfloor recommendations described above are for 19.2”
O/C joist spacing with minimum recommended spans. If the subfloor has excessive
vertical movement (deflection) before installation of the flooring it is likely
it will do so after installation of the flooring is complete. Deflection may
cause the floor to become loose creating a noisy floor or cause premature
finish wear. Avoid installations over sub floors that do not meet this minimum
criterion. As flooring manufacturers we are unable to evaluate each engineered
system. Other spacing and spans as well as their engineering methods are the
responsibility of the builder, engineer, architect or consumer who is better
able to evaluate the expected result based on site related performance.
All underlayment panels should be spaced
1/8”apart to insure adequate expansion space or have the space cut around the
perimeter using a circular saw. T&G panels normally have built in
expansion; DO NOT cut around their perimeter. When installing over existing
wood floors parallel with the flooring or solid wood decking, it may be
necessary to install an additional layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring
or install the wood floor at right angles. Applicable standards and
recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or
exceeded.
RESILIENT TILE, RESILIENT SHEET VINYL &
CORK FLOORING (STAPLE-DOWN)
Make sure the vinyl or tile is full spread adhesive and well bonded to
the subfloor. Do not install over more than one layer, which does not exceed
1/8”in thickness over suitable subfloor. If vinyl or tiles are loose, crumbled,
or in poor condition, install an underlayment directly over the sheet vinyl
(linoleum) or vinyl tiles. NOTE: Some older type tiles become brittle with
age. Ascertain that the staple will penetrate these materials and that
breakage does not occur. Remove if necessary
GLUE-DOWN
IF THE TILES OR SHEET GOODS ARE WELL BONDED, CLEAN THE SURFACE THOROUGHLY WITH
A GOOD QUALITY HOUSEHOLD DETERGENT AND RINSE COMPLETELY. DE-GLOSS FLOORING AS
NECESSARY, (FIGURE #6) TO CREATE A GOOD ADHESIVE BOND USING AN ABRASIVE PAD. IF
VINYL APPEARS TO HAVE A COATING OF WAX OR OTHER MAINTENANCE MATERIALS IT MUST
BE REMOVED WITH THE APPROPRIATE FLOOR STRIPPER AND RINSED COMPLETELY. ALLOW
AMPLE DRYING TIME. (NOTE:DO NOT SAND ANY RESILIENT PRODUCTS FOR THEY MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS,WHICH MAY BE HARMFUL.) DO NOT INSTALL OVER FLOORS THAT
EXCEED TWO LAYERS. CORK FLOORS MUST HAVE ALL SEALERS AND SURFACE TREATMENTS
REMOVED BEFORE INSTALLATION BEGINS. ALWAYS CHECK FOR ADEQUATE ADHESIVE BOND.
CERAMIC, TERRAZZO, SLATE & MARBLE
(GLUE-DOWN ONLY)
All grout joints and broken corners that exceed 3/16” must be filled
with a cementitous leveling compound mixed with Latex additive. The surface
should be cleaned and abraded to create a good bonding surface for the
adhesive. Loose tiles must be re-adhered to the subfloor or filled as above.
Remove all sealers and surface treatments. Always check for adequate adhesive
bond.
ACOUSTIC CORK UNDERLAYMENT (GLUE-DOWN ONLY)
Engineered flooring can be glued directly over full-spread,
permanently bonded acoustic cork. The cork should have a density of no less
than 11.4 lb./cubic foot and no more than 13 lb./cubic foot. The cork, in
general, should be pure cork combined with a polyurethane binder.
Install cork in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations. Always check
for adequate adhesive bond.
SUBFLOORS WITH RADIANT HEAT
System must be operational and heated for at
least 7 days prior to beginning the installation.
Turn off heat and let subfloor cool down to
room temperature 3-4 hours prior to starting the job.
Radiant heated floors must be temperature
controlled or engineered for the R-rating of the floor-covering product
installed upon them. BEFORE installation begins, ascertain that the system is
designed and controlled for wood flooring. Failure to do so may cause excessive
heat damage and shrinkage. Install floor per the application instructions
(staple or glue-down). NOTE: Refer to radiant heat system manufacturer’s
precautions for nail down installation. Beware of stapling through radiant
tubing or mesh.
After installation, turn system back on
immediately to its normal room temperature setting. The subfloor surface must
not exceed 85° F throughout the life of the floor.
All engineered products should be end-glued
over radiant heat. Apply a bead of good wood glue to the groove end then insert
the tongue. Wipe excess adhesive away immediately.
GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS
NOTE: When installing UNFINISHED engineered flooring, allow a minimum
of 72 hours adhesive curing time before applying seals, stains and finishes to
unfinished flooring. Test the moisture content of the wood in accordance with
the stain/finish manufacturer’s recommendations.
Floor should be installed from several
cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards
in adjacent rows at least 6”when possible (figure #7).This will help ensure a
more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
STEP 1: DOORWAY AND WALL PREPARATION
Undercut door casings and jambs. Remove any existing base, shoe mold
or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation. All door
casings and jambs should be undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts (figure
#8).
STEP 2:ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT
Installation parallel to the longest wall is
recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be installed
perpendicular to the flooring joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to
reduce subfloor sagging. Find appropriate subfloor from “Subfloor Type” section
in this instruction manual.
Add 3/8”to the widest width of the product
being installed to allow for 1/4” expansion and the width of the tongue. For
random and alternate width products, use the widest plank for the first row.
When possible, always begin layout or
installation from an outside wall, as these are normally the straightest.
In at least two places 12”-16”from the
corner, measure out equal distance from the starting wall (figure #9) and snap
a chalk line.
STAPLE-DOWN METHOD
NOTE: Installation of a moisture retardant may reduce movement of
flooring in areas with high subfloor moisture or excessive humidity.
STEP 3:INSTALLING FIRST & SECOND ROWS
Use the longest, straightest boards available
for the first two rows. Align tongue of first row on chalk line. The groove
should be facing the starting wall.Pre-drill 1/2”from back (groo ve) edge,
1-2”from each end, and at 6”inter vals when possible (figure #10). Fasten using
4 or 6d finishing nails. Countersink the nails.
Pre-drill and blind-nail at a 45° angle
through the tongue of the first row every 3-4”and 1-2”from the ends.
Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove with the following
row(s). Continue blind nailing using this method with following rows until
stapler can be used.
End-joints of adjacent rows should be
staggered a minimum of 6” when possible to ensure a more favorable overall
appearance (see figure #7).
Beginning rows may be blind nailed where
clearance allows using a pneumatic brad nailer with 1”brads.
STEP 4:INSTALLING THE FLOOR
Always use the recommended stapler for the specific product being
installed (see “Installation Applications”). Use minimum 1”recommended by the
stapler manufacturer spaced at 3-4”intervals and 1-2”from the ends.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All 3/8”-1/2”products over 3-1/4”wide are recommended for
glue-down installation only.
Set compressor at 70 PSI. If tongue damage
occurs, lower air pressure (see figure #3).
Fasten several sacrificial boards to the
floor. At least two boards, stapled side by side, must be used to indicate
proper machine adjustments. Check for surface damage, air pressure setting,
tongue damage, edge blistering etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and
corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been made,
remove and destroy the boards.
The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed
when clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer.
Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used
for the first row.
Maximum adhesive working times: Urethane
adhesive - 60 minutes; Polymeric resin adhesive - 90 minutes
Open times and curing times of ALL adhesives
vary dependent upon subfloor porosity, air movement, humidity and room
temperature. Urethane adhesive has a shortened work time in high humidity
environments whereas polymeric resin working time will be lengthened. In areas
of low humidity open time will be longer with urethane adhesives and shorter
with polymeric resin adhesives. Adjust the amount of adhesive spread
accordingly. The adhesive should not be applied if subfloor or room temperature
is below 65° F (18.3° C).
Spread sufficient amounts of recommended
adhesive with the recommended trowel (see figure #4) in an area that can be
covered in 60-90 minutes. Polymeric resin adhesives may be rolled if desired.
If desired, do so every two hours and at the end of the day. If the urethane
adhesive is to be rolled do not do so until the adhesive has cured for 2 hours.
NOTE: Avoid installing from the surface of
the flooring. If necessary distribute weight using a kneeler board.
STEP 3: SPREAD THE ADHESIVE
Spread sufficient amount of recommended
adhesive with a 3/16”x 1/4”x 1/2”x 5/16”trowel (see figure #4) in an area that
can be covered in 60-90 minutes.
Hold trowel at a minimum 45° angle (figure
#11) firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 50-60 sq.ft. per gallon spread
rate. The trowel will leave ridges of adhesive and very little adhesive between
the ridges. This will allow you to still see the chalk lines between the ridges
and provide the recommended spread rate. If the adhesive skins over and fails
to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the
subfloor. WORKING TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON JOB SITE CONDITIONS.
For additional application instructions,
follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.
When not in use, keep the adhesive container
tightly closed to prevent thickening. Thickening will cause difficulty in
spreading the adhesive.
Proper ventilation within the room must be
provided. An electric fan is helpful.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
Use the longest, straightest boards available
for the first two rows. The first row of planks should be installed with the
edge of the groove lined up on the chalk line. The tongue should be facing the
starting wall. The first row must be aligned and seated in the adhesive, as all
additional rows will be pushed back to this original row. Remove tongue to
allow for expansion space if necessary.
When installing 5-ply products or products
wider than 3 1/4”, apply a bead of PVA wood glue to all of the end grooves
prior to installing into the adhesive.
When installing pieces, engage the end-joint
first as close to side (long) tongue and groove as possible and then slide
together tightly to engage side (long) joint tongue and groove. To avoid
adhesive bleed-through and memory pullback, avoid sliding pieces through the
adhesive as much as possible when placing them in position.
During the installation occasionally remove a
piece of flooring from the subfloor and inspect the back for proper adhesive
transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding
strength. NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently using
the recommended adhesive cleaner. Urethane adhesives become extremely difficult
to remove when cured. Do not use blue tape before adhesive is removed. Use
clean towel, changed frequently, to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
Check for a tight fit between all edges and
ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6”when
possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance (see figure #7).
If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with
1”nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row in place.
It may be necessary to align product with a
cut-off piece of scrap as shown (figure #12 - Keep scrap angle low to avoid
edge damage).
To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of
product during installation, use 3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape to hold the planks
together. After installation is complete, remove all the 3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape
from surface of newly installed flooring. Do not let tape remain on flooring
longer than 24 hours. Avoid use of masking tape, which leaves an adhesive
residue.
Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead
of your work area (figure #13).
Complete the installation using this same
technique for the remainder of the floor.
Avoid heavy foot traffic on the floor for at
least 24 hours. Lift the furniture or fixtures back into place after 24 hours.
STAPLE-DOWN & GLUE-DOWN METHODS
STEP 5:COMPLETE THE JOB
Clean floor with the recommended wood
flooring cleaner. (See adhesive container for specific information)
Re-install any transition pieces that may be
needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-moldings, or Thresholds. The products are
available pre-finished to blend with your flooring.
Re-install all base and/or quarter round
moldings . Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor. Inspect the floor,
filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
If the floor is to be covered, use a
breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
Leave warranty and floor care information
with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring
they purchased.
To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy
furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance
lifts if necessary.
REDUCER STRIP: a teardrop shaped molding used
around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between wood
flooring and adjacent floor coverings that are less thick. Fasten down with
adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
THRESHOLD: a molding undercut for use against
sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds
to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height
difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel.
Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
STAIR NOSING: a molding undercut for use as a
stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down
firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent
splitting.
QUARTER ROUND: a molding used to cover
expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Predrill and
nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
COMBINATION BASE AND SHOE: a molding used
when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and the
wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
T-MOLDING: a molding used as a transition
piece from one flooring to another of equal height or to gain expansion spaces.
Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional support may need to
be added to the heel of the molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods
covered.
|