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Installation Instructions
Continuous Strip™ Series 3/4" Solid Plank & Strip Products For Nail-Down
Installation
INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of
nature and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in
accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance
not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
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The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product
quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation.
Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it.
If material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller
immediately.
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Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring product, the installer must
determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or
exceed all applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and
materials industries. These instructions recommend that the construction and
subfloor be dry, stiff and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility
for job failure resulting from or associated with sub-surface or job-site
environment deficiencies.
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Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility
as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable
selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects, whatever the cause.
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Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation
should be accepted as normal procedure.
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When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed
for cutting and grading allowance.
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Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory
finish, the installer should not use the piece.
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES NEEDED
NOTE: IT IS EXTREMELY
IMPORTANT TO USE THE PROPER ADAPTERS AS WELL AS STAPLES OR CLEATS. IMPROPER
FASTENERS, MACHINES AND AIR PRESSURE CAN CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE. THE MANUFACTURER
OF THIS FLOORING PRODUCT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE CAUSED BY USE OF
IMPROPER TOOLS OR MISUSE.
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Broom
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Drill with 1/16" drill bit
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Table saw, jig saw, or circular saw
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Tape Measure
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Hammer
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Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
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Chalk line & chalk
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Recommended Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
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6-8d finishing nails
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Hand saw
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Nail Set
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¾" "Blind" fastening machine
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Job Site Inspection
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The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place.
All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work
should be thoroughly dry.
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The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the
final coat on the base molding. When possible, delay installation of base
molding until flooring installation is complete.
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Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away
from the building. All gutters and downspouts should be in place.
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Solid flooring can only be installed on or above grade level. Do not install in
full bathrooms.
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Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
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Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm) from the ground to underside of
joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a
vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should
have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square
footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation
(see figure #1).
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Subfloor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing
method.
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Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and
operational. The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of
60-75 degrees F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and until
occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Solid products should be stored in the
environment in which they are expected to perform. Deliver the materials to an
environmentally controlled site. Materials should be allowed to acclimate for
as long as necessary to meet minimum installation requirements for moisture
content. Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry place being sure to
provide at least a four-inch air space under cartons which are stored upon
"on-grade" concrete floors. Flooring should not be delivered until the building
has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until cement work,
plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry. Concrete should be at
least 60 days old. Air conditioning/heating systems should be in place and in
operation at least 14 days prior, during and after installation of the
flooring.
INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS
NOTE: MINOR SQUEAKING OF
MECHANICALLY FASTENED FLOORS IS NOT ABNORMAL DUE TO STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT CAUSED
BY CHANGES IN ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN
MINIMIZE THESE FACTORS, BUT OFFER NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR WILL NOT SQUEAK.
General Information for Fastening Machines:
Avoid striking the edge of prefinished products with the fastener's mallet.
Edge crushing can occur causing unsightly cracks and splinters. Use a block to
hammer against if necessary (figure #2). Faceplates should be covered with
protective materials to prevent damage to the surface of the flooring.
General Information for Manual Fastening
Machines:
Improper adapter plate selection can cause severe edge damage. Ascertain that
the proper adapter has been selected and properly installed for 3/4" flooring.
General Information for Pneumatic Fastening
Machines:
Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can cause severe
damage to the flooring. The correct adapter and air pressure setting will
properly set the fastener in the nail pocket (figure #3). Low air pressures may
fail to properly set the fastener and damage adjoining boards.
Low air pressures may fail to properly set the
fastener and damage adjoining boards. Air pressures set too high may cause
damage to the tongue which may dramatically reduce the holding power of the
fastener causing loose, squeaky floors. Make certain that the compressor has a
regulator in-line with the air hose for proper adjustment. Set pressure at
70-75 PSI to begin with and adjust until proper fastener setting occurs.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
NOTE: Laminated rosin paper or
15# builders felt (tarpaper) acts as a moisture retarder and may be used to
reduce movement caused by changes in subfloor moisture, thereby reducing
cupping and warping. (This is especially helpful over crawl spaces and
basements) In addition, the use of these materials can give the flooring a more
solid feeling, reduce sound transfer, prevent noise caused by minor
irregularities and debris, and make it easier to slide the wood together across
the surface of the subfloor. Kraft paper may be used to make installation
easier but DOES NOT serve any other purpose.
SUBFLOORS MUST BE:
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CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of wax, paint, oil or debris.
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LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'. Sand high areas or joints.
Low spots can be flattened using shims or layers of builders felt between the
wood and the subfloor during installation.
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STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any
water-damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring or underlayments, as they are
unable to properly hold fasteners. Avoid subfloor with excessive vertical
movement unless they have been properly stiffened prior to the installation of
the wood flooring.
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DRY - Check moisture content of subfloor. Moisture content of wood subfloor
must not exceed 13% on a wood moisture meter, or read more than a 4% difference
(3% for plank) than moisture level of product being installed.
RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
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PREFERRED: 3/4" (19 mm) CDX grade plywood
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3/4" (23/32") OSB PS2 rated underlayment
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MINIMUM: 5/8" CDX grade plywood
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Existing solid wood flooring
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Screeds
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T&G wood subflooring
SUBFLOOR TYPES:
NOTE: Do Not Install Solid Wood Plank or Strip Over Radiant Heated
Subfloors
WOOD SUBFLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL
SUBFLOORS
Plywood: Must be minimum APA grade rated sheathing or CDX.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Must be PS2 rated installed
sealed side down. Do Not install over particleboard, waferboard, pressed wood
or fiber board.
Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry and
well nailed or screwed down every 6" along each joist to avoid squeaking or
popping before the floor is installed. Measure moisture content of both
subfloor and wood flooring to determine proper moisture content with a reliable
wood moisture meter (figure #4). The wood subfloor must not exceed 13% moisture
content as measured with a reliable wood moisture meter. The difference between
the moisture content of the wood subfloor and the wood flooring must not exceed
4%. (3% for plank)
Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering
products occurs when there is no horizontal or vertical movement of the
subfloor. The MINIMUM subfloor recommendations described above are for 16" O/C
joist spacing. The thicker, PREFERRED subfloor recommendations described above
will allow 19.2" joist spacing if the joist manufacturer's recommended span is
not exceeded. Spacing in excess of 19.2" O/C may not offer optimum results.
Install flooring perpendicular to the floor joists when possible. Installations
should not be made parallel to the floor joists or on joist spacing that
exceeds 19.2" O/C unless the subfloor has been properly stiffened. Stiffening
may require the addition of a second layer of subflooring material to bring the
overall thickness to at least 1-1/8".
All underlayment panels should be spaced 1/8"
apart to insure adequate expansion space. This can be achieved by using a
circular saw set at the depth of the underlayment and cutting around the
perimeter of the panel. T&G panels normally have built in expansion; DO NOT
cut around the perimeter of T&G panels. Do not install over existing
glue-down floors. Do not install over nailed floors that exceed 3-¼" in width.
Wide width floors must be overlaid with plywood. When installing over existing
wood floors parallel with the flooring, it may be necessary to install an
additional ¼" layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring or install the wood
floor at right angles. Applicable standards and recommendations of the
construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded.
CONCRETE SLABS
Solid flooring can be installed over concrete once the appropriate
nailing surface has been installed. The concrete must be of high compressive
strength. All concrete subfloors should be tested for moisture content. Visual
checks are not reliable. Acceptable test methods for subfloor moisture content
include:
NOTE: Test several areas,
especially near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing.
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A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution. Chip the concrete at least
¼" deep (do not apply directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops
of the solution to the chipped area. If any color change occurs, further
testing is required.
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Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3
lbs./1000 square feet with this test.
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Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter (figure #5). Moisture readings should
not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale. (Figure #5 shows an unacceptable reading of
over 4.5)
A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE
WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL
CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER
BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
Moisture Retardant System: If moisture is
present, install 6-mil poly to the surface of the concrete BEFORE installing
the subfloor. Several layers of laminated rosin paper or builders felt
(tarpaper) may also be used. All materials should have joints lapped 6". If you
have any questions regarding installation or the handling of moisture problems,
please contact the distributor/retailer from whom the goods were purchased.
Subfloor Systems
Bonded: Install a suitable
moisture retardant followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum thickness of
¾". Allow ½" expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between all
flooring panels. The panel must be properly attached to the subfloor using a
minimum of one fastener per square foot and more if necessary. Use pneumatic or
powder actuated fasteners. Do not hand nail the subfloor with concrete nails.
Install a moisture retardant barrier with joints lapped 6" and begin
installation of flooring using 1½" fasteners.
Floating: Install a suitable
moisture retardant followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum of 3/8". Allow
½" expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between all flooring
panels. Install a second layer of 3/8" plywood at a right angle to the previous
panels, offsetting the joints 2'. Staple together with staples that will not
penetrate the first layer of subfloor with a crown width of 3/8" or more.
Install a moisture retardant barrier as above and begin installation of
flooring.
RESILIENT TILE & RESILIENT SHEET VINYL
Make sure the vinyl or tile is well bonded to the subfloor. Do not
install over more than one layer, which does not exceed 1/8" in thickness over
suitable subfloor.
DOORWAY AND WALL PREPARATION
Undercut door casings. Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway
thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation. All door casings
should be notched out (figure #6) or undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts.
GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS
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Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good
color and shade mixture.
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Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 6", when possible, in
adjacent rows (figure #7). This will help ensure a more favorable overall
appearance of the floor.
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Large spans in areas of high humidity may require the addition of internal or
field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small
washers, every 10-20 rows inserted above the tongue and removed after several
adjoining rows have been fastened
STEP 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT - WALL
TO WALL INSTALLATION
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Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual
effects, however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the flooring
joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging. Find
appropriate subfloor from "Subfloor Type" section in this instruction manual.
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If a moisture retardant material is to be used, such as Laminated Rosin Paper
(see NOTE, Subfloor Requirements), install this material before proceeding,
lapping joints 6" and stapling if necessary.
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Measure the width of the product being installed. For random or alternate width
products, use the widest plank for the first row.
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Add 1" to allow for 3/4" expansion and the width of the tongue.
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Using this measurement, in at least two places, measure out equal distance from
the starting wall and 12"-18" from the corners (figure #8) and snap a chalk
line.
STEP 2: INSTALLING FIRST ROWS - WALL TO
WALL INSTALLATION
NOTE: Because of the similar
length of each strip of flooring it is important to create a random pattern at
the beginning of the installation. The simplest way to accomplish this is by
cutting the first four strips at random lengths to create random joints that
are at least 12" apart which will create a random stair step appearance. Then,
when the end of the row is reached the origin cut-off ends may be used to
finish the row.
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Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. Align
tongue of first row on chalk line. The groove should be facing the starting
wall. Pre-drill the nail holes 1/2" from back (groove) edge, 1-2" from each
end, and at 6" intervals at a 45-degree angle down through the nailing "pocket"
on top of the tongue (figure #9).
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Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a
45-degree angle through the tongue of the first row. Fasten using 6 or 8d
nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid bruising
the wood by using a nail set to drive the nails the last 1/4" into the tongue.
Continue blind-nailing using this method with following rows until stapler or
nailer can be used.
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End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6" to ensure a
more favorable overall appearance.
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Beginning rows may be blind-nailed where clearance allows using a pneumatic
finish nailer with 15 gauge, 1-1/2" (minimum) nails.
STEP 1 & 2: CENTER TO WALL INSTALLATION
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Snap a chalk line down the center of the room.
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Install a sacrificial row that extends the entire length of the room on the
center line.
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Install three rows of flooring.
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Remove the sacrificial row and insert a slip tongue in the open groove.
STEP 3: RACKING THE FLOOR
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Racking the floor is not necessary with full-length boards. Follow the
instructions in the special notes (above). Proper end joint spacing is
important (12") but internal joints, because of their strength, do not require
random placement.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
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Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage, air pressure
setting, tongue damage, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and
corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been made,
remove and destroy the board.
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Begin installation with several rows at a time, fastening each board with at
least two fasteners, 8-10" apart and 2-3" from the ends (to avoid splitting).
Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.
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End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6" when possible to ensure a
more favorable overall appearance.
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The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit
blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the
tongue side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
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Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the final row is less than 1" in width,
it should first be glued to the previous UNINSTALLED row and the two joined
units should be face-nailed as one.
INSTALLERS - ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE
FOLLOWING
SEASONS: HEATING AND NON-HEATING
Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by
varying levels of humidity within your building, care should be taken to
control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and
to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our
recommendations below.
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Heating Season (Dry) - A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive
shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric
heat tend to create very dry conditions.
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Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet) - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by
use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system
periodically during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water from
tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way the
expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired with a touch-up kit or filler. Major
damage will require board replacement, which can be done by a professional
floor installer.
ALL INSTALLATIONS
STEP 5: COMPLETING THE JOB
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Clean floor with the recommended wood flooring cleaner.
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Re-install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as Reducer Strips,
T-moldings, or Thresholds. The products are available pre-finished to blend
with your flooring. (See moldings below)
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Re-install all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall,
not the floor. Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate
blended filler.
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If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do
not cover with plastic.
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Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the
product name and code number of the flooring they purchased.
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To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture on the
floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary.
MOLDINGS
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Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped molding. Used around
fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between Parquet and
adjacent floor coverings that are thinner. Fasten down with adhesive or
double-faced tape.
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Threshold: a molding undercut for use against sliding door
tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to allow for
expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten
to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to
prevent splitting. Always leave expansion beneath the undercut.
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Stair Nosing: a molding undercut for use as a stair
landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down firmly
with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
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Quarter Round: a molding used to cover expansion space
next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Predrill and nail to the
vertical surface, not into the floor.
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Combination Base and Shoe: a molding used when a base is
desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and the wall. Predrill
and nail into the wall, not the floor.
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T-Molding: a molding used as a transition
piece from one flooring to another or to gain expansion spaces. Fasten at the
heel in the center of the molding. Leave expansion beneath the undercut on both
sides.
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